| Title |
An Experimental Study of Sand Beach Profile Evolution under Regular Waves Corresponding to Storm and Normal Conditions |
| Authors |
최준우(Choi, Junwoo) ; 노민(Roh, Min) |
| DOI |
https://doi.org/10.12652/Ksce.2017.37.2.0333 |
| Keywords |
이동상 수리실험;해안단면 변화;쇄파대;역저류;왜도;비대칭성 Laboratory movable-bed experiment;Beach profile evolution;Surfzone;Undertow;Skewness;Asymmetry |
| Abstract |
In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases. |