| Keywords |
Pattern reduction ; Stretch fabrics ; Clothing deformation ; Negative ease allowance ; Coordinates ; Trousers |
| Abstract |
2D pattern-making of stretch clothing is difficult because different elongations of fabrics on a 3D body make various clothing deformations which lead to change in original design and function of the clothing. Therefore, quantitative analysis of relations between 2D pattern and clothing deformation on a 3D body is an important topic of interest both for industry and academia. In this study, the effects of 2D pattern reduction rate and fabric elasticity were investigated by measuring how the points on a 2D pattern are correlated with the location change of the points on a 3D female dress form. 14 different sample trousers were tested with two different kinds of fabrics. The reference sample trousers have no ease allowance, and the other samples were made with different grading reduction rate based on the reference. The reduction rate was varied from 10 to 20% in the width direction and from 5 to 15% in the length direction. Representative points were selected in the 2D pattern and location changes of the points on a 3D dress form were measured. The correlations between 2D and 3D coordinates were analyzed by monitoring the location change of each point. The reduction of 2D pattern leads to different position change on the 3D dress form and the influences of pattern reduction rate is much higher than that of fabric property. Comparing to the width direction, the reduction rate of length direction shows much higher correlation along the length direction. |